The last 27-inch iMac was engineered on an intel chip in 2020, almost immediately after the M1 chip was introduced. The M1 chip meant even a base model iMac was faster than a tricked-out Intel Mac. There was also a new operating system that advanced each year, and with each iteration, my intel machine seemed to slow down. This is possibly due to the advancing operating system in Adobe, Capture One, and DXO software or the increase in the megapixels of cameras. The machine often ceases up with the spinning “wheel of death.” So what are the possibilities given October’s release of new M4 Macs? I)
So, looking for an upgrade presents a problem as Apple has discontinued the 27-inch Mac in favour of an external monitor. This, in most cases, means looking toward either a laptop or the Mac mini. In exploring the options, I took a look at the following options. Typically, I would have opted for 32 GB of unified memory, but I sense that 24 GB would work just as well with the M chips. This requires more research, as I will likely have Adobe, Capture One or Nik, mail, and browsers open simultaneously with 250mp files moving between programs as 500mp TIFFS.
The Bytom article referenced below seems to imply that most M1 machines, provided they have more than 512TB in the hard drive and at least 24GB of unified memory, will run the most up-to-date photography software. He goes on to suggest that if you are going to leave a lot of things open and running, then the best thing to invest in is unified memory, followed by SSD memory. He suggests that the number of cores will likely become more critical, which may be a consideration for future-proofing, especially if you are doing graphics. The article is quite detailed, so I will leave the reader to browse it for more details.
I do like the idea of being able at some time to add more screens and tend to keep my computers for some time, so I will be looking at the new M4 options. I also think 24GB of unified memory might work, but I might consider going as high as 48 GB. I currently use external drives for photo storage, and I think it might be better to have that built into the computer. This would mean a minimum of 2TB, but I’m considering possibly 4TB. These specifications are unavailable on the 24-inch iMac and would likely lead me to select either a Pro Laptop or the Mac Mini. The following table contains some of the solutions I am considering. I am using the Mac Studio Display to price out these options.
The Mac monitor has a superior build and the best audio of the available photography monitors. The chart below does not contain all the options for a colour-accurate high-resolution screen, but the ones I have listed appear compatible with Apple’s ecosystem. The iMac was based on a 5k screen, which is the specification of the two-year-old Apple Studio Display. The studio display is the obvious choice. For some reason, the LG, sold by Apple for three years, is now more expensive than the Apple Studio Display. Currently, the Samsung monitor appears to be the budget option. Given that, there could be some minor compatibility issues.
The last two options are attractive as they would undoubtedly mean more screen real estate, but the Apple Pro Display is an expensive option, at three times the cost. The Dell machine provides a cheaper alternative, but there may be integration issues with the Apple ecosystem.
Colour Space
Colour gamut or colour space is essential for viewing and printing digital images. If you look at the two charts below, you will notice that the screen’s colour gamut, which on the monitors above is P3, differs from the print gamut. The two printers in the second illustration are high-quality art printers. If you own an Epson printer, it covers a similar colour space as sRGB, but not all the colours you will see if your monitor is set to P3 or Adobe RGB, the settings the monitors above use.
The difference between the two printers’ colour spaces is that the Canon can handle warm tones more effectively, and the Epson printer can handle the blues and greens. Perhaps this is not the difference between Fujifilm film and Kodak Film.